Musings

I have been trying something new with my starter. The morning I make bread dough I refresh the starter, let it sit on the counter a few hours, then place it in the fridge. This is typically on Fridays. The following Tuesday evening I remove it from the fridge and let it sit out on the counter overnight. Wednesday and Thursday mornings I refresh the starter. Thursday night I make my leaven. Then, depending on how much I used, I will either refresh to make up what I removed or let it sit on the counter and refresh on Friday morning and repeat.

I have been pulling some of my bread baking books off the shelf and re-reading them. This week it has been The Village Baker by Joe Ortiz. This was published in 1997. I had forgotten much of the material in the book including some of the recipes I wanted to try. I had not remembered the stories of Joe driving all over southern France buying rye breads or siegel in French. I never realized rye breads were so popular in France. I can’t imagine an 8 kg loaf of rye bread. That would make a lot of rueben sandwiches!

I also hadn’t realized that all the bakeries in France used the same formula for baguettes. 100kg flour (t55 all purpose), 60kg water, 2kg salt, 1 kg yeast or an amount of each in the same ratio. The big difference is each bakeries process on how they treat the ingredients. Some make a straight dough, some make a sponge with a portion of the flour, yeast and salt and make a pre-ferment, others may use some of the dough from the previous days batch and so on. The other big variable is the flour. I read recently of a small farm organically raising wheat and milling flour. They started small and could only supply one bakery. That bakery started winning the prize for the best baguette in France which they did for several years in a row. The farm grew and started supplying a couple more bakeries and they too started winning prizes. Salt and water are also variables. Some argue only flake sea salt from Normandy should be used. Just goes to show how serious the French are about their bread.

This Weeks Bread

Miche aka Traditional French Sourdough

Finished loaf

I have wanted to make this bread since I started baking naturally leavened bread. It is based on the bread baked by Poilâne Bakery in Paris. Of course mine won’t be the same since I am not using the same flour, water, salt or starter.

The version I am doing is from a recipe on Breadtopia (no affiliation) but again the same comment from above about ingredients applies.

This covers two weeks of making the same recipe with tweaks between the two attempts. The first week I followed the recipe as written. The main tweak the second week was to add more water to both the leaven and the dough the second week. Next was to reduce the bulk fermentation time from 24 hours to 22 hours and final proof was 4 hours vs 5 hours. Finally for mixing and kneading the dough I used the Kitchenaid mixer with dough hook the second week. All photos are from week 2 unless otherwise noted.

For flour I am using King Arthur Organic Bread Flour, King Arthur Organic Whole Wheat Flour, Hodgson Mills Organic Whole Rye Flour and Bobs Red Mill Organic Spelt Flour (I have no affiliation with any of those companies).

The process for the dough is slightly different than most of the other sourdoughs I have made. On day 1 a leaven is made. In this case it is made with a higher percentage of starter than I typically use, all the whole wheat flour and water. It is mixed and then sits on the counter covered for 12 hours.

Just mixed leaven
Leaven after 12 hours

Day 2 the dough is made. The dough is mixed with some of the bread flour held back. The dough is then kneaded by hand for 10 minutes adding some of the held back flour if the dough becomes sticky. At the end of kneading the dough should be smooth and tacky but not sticky. The difference is difficult to describe but obvious when achieved. This is a stiff dough. It was a fair amount of work for me with my compromised breathing. I could have used the mixer and dough hook but I wanted to feel the dough develop by hand to know what should feel like. When I make this again I most likely will use the mixer. The major difference with this dough is after it is kneaded, it is placed in an oiled bowl, covered, and placed in the refrigerator for 24 hours. There is no further work on the dough until the next day.

Just mixed dough
Dough after 22 hours in fridge

On day 3 the dough is removed from the refrigerator, shaped into a boule and placed in a 10” banneton to proof for approximately 5 hours.

Dough after proofing

The Formula

IngredientAmountBakers %
Leaven
Water200 g85%
Starter120 g51%
Whole wheat flour236 g100%
Dough
Water274 g54%
Leaven556 g110%
Bread flour250 g50%
Spelt flour170 g33%
Rye flour85 g17%
Total flour505 g100%
Sea salt13 g6%

Note: the salt percentage looks high but is based on the total flour in both the leaven and the dough.

My Process

  1. Weigh ingredients for leaven in a medium sized mixing bowl.
  2. Mix ingredients thoroughly.
  3. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let stand on counter 12 hours.
  4. Weigh ingredients for dough.
  5. Mix the leaven into the water in a large mixing bowl.
  6. Add the rye and spelt flours to the mixing bowl and thoroughly incorporate.
  7. Add the salt to the mixing bowl and incorporate.
  8. Slowly add the bread flour and incorporate by hand. Do not add all of the bread flour yet. The dough will become very stiff.
  9. Remove the dough from the from the bowl to a surface floured with some of the reserved bread flour. Knead dough by hand for 10 minutes adding more of the reserved bread flour when the dough becomes sticky. The final dough should feel tacky but not sticky. The best way I can describe the difference is that sticky dough will stick to and remain on your fingers, tacky dough will feel tacky but not stick to your fingers.
  10. Oil a large bowl with olive oil, place the dough in the bowl and cover with plastic wrap.
  11. Place bowl in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
  12. The next day remove the dough from the fridge. Pre-shape into a boule.
  13. Let rest covered on counter for 30 minutes.
  14. Final shape into boule and place dough seam side up in a floured 10” banneton. Place banneton in a plastic bag. Note, proofed dough will fill or be slightly above the top of the banneton.
  15. Let dough proof 5 hours.
  16. 1 hour before proofing is complete, pre-heat the oven to 485F. 15 minutes before proofing is complete place a roasting pan in the oven.
  17. When proofing is complete, invert dough on to a parchment covered peel.
  18. Slash dough with lame.
  19. Remove roasting pan from oven. Transfer the dough on the parchment to the baking stone. Spritz the dough with water from a spray bottle and cover with the roasting pan immediately.
  20. Bake 25 minutes with the dough covered.
  21. Remove cover and bake an additional 20 minutes uncovered with the oven set to 450F.
  22. Remove bread from oven to a cooling rack. Let cool completely.

The first time I made this the dough reached the tacky stage and I still had 1/2 to 3/4 cup of the bread flour left. Week one the dough was over proofed after 5 hours and there was no oven spring. The flavor was excellent, probably the best tasting loaf I’ve ever made. There is a complexity to the flavor that just can’t be achieved using just white wheat flour. The crumb was tight and soft when first sliced. The next day the bread already seemed dry. That made the decision to make the bread again the next week, with some changes.

Week 1 loaf, almost no oven spring, the picture does not show just how flat this loaf was

The changes in the formula were to increase the water in the leaven by 10 grams from 200 grams to 210 grams and to increase the water in the dough by 16 grams from 274 grams to 290 grams. This time I only had about a tablespoon of flour left when the dough reached the tacky point.

The changes to my process were in steps 5-9 to use the mixer with a dough hook, in step 11 to reduce the time from 24 hours to 22 hours and in step 15 from 5 hours from the time the dough went into the banneton to 4 hours from the time the dough came out of the fridge.

This time I got nice oven spring. The crumb was nice and soft with a more uniform tight texture and slightly more chew from better gluten development. I left the original formula and process because if someone uses different flours than I did, the original formula and proceeded would be the logical starting point.

Finished loaf with oven spring, week 2
Week 1 crumb and texture

This has become one of my favorite breads and will show up frequently in my bread making rotation. I think when I next make this I may try an herbed version.