Baguette Tools

I will begin by saying I have limited experience in making baguettes. So far, I have only made them twice. It might seem I odd that I am recommending items already but changes made between the first and second time improved the result. I am addressing the items in order of their use in the baguette making process.

Floured couch

A couche does a couple of things. First it keeps the formed baguette from spreading out during final proofing. It is used by bring up folds between each baguette and the covering the baguettes with the remainder of the couche to prevent the dough from drying. I also believe it slightly absorbs some of the moisture from the taught outer surface a helps prevent sticking. The one I am using was purchased, but a large linen towel could be used as well. Mine is fairly stiff so it does a good job of supporting each baguette, keeps it from spreading out and resulting in a nice round baguette cross-section. I have had no issues with the dough sticking to the couche. The first time I floured it with a combination of rye and AP flours which resulted in unsightly baguettes after baking. The second I used the same flour as in the dough and it worked fine.

Baguette flipping board

A baguette flipping board is used to transfer risen baguettes from the couche to a peel or pan and to reorient the seam, if necessary. It is critical not to deflate the dough during the transfer. The risen baguettes are so soft and “floppy” for lack of a better description, that transferring by hand would be virtually impossible. I am sure there are bakers that make baguettes all the time that can make hand transfers but I certainly could not. There are many YouTube videos showing how to use a baguette flipping board. I purchased mine but you could make one yourself. I is just a thin piece of wood with a double bevel on each long edge and a hole to hang it up.

Baguette Pan

The first time I baked baguettes I baked them on a baking stone with a cast iron skillet on a rack below it. After the loaves were placed on the stone boiling water was poured in the cast iron skillet to add steam and the oven door quickly shut. I was not at all happy with crust I achieved. It just seemed like the steam wasn’t getting to the loaves. Baking was done at 475F using a conventional bake setting for the oven. My feeling was that by the time the steam got around the stone it was above the baking bread.

So I decided to look for a perforated baguette pan made of blackened steel. They used to be common years ago. Now everything seems to have some form of non-stick coating which I really did not want. First off, the coatings non-stick properties never seem to last all that long. Secondly, most non-stick coatings are limited to a maximum temperature of 450F or less. Since that was all I could find I selected a black non-stick coated pan from a supplier whose products I have been satisfied with in the past. I will say up front, I am not completely satisfied with this pan. It came straight out of the packaging with non-stick coating missing in numerous spots. Luckily, the spots are all near the top edge of the pan. I guessed they were in areas that the bread would not touch. On its first use, that was the case.

My hope was that the steam rising from the boiling water in the cast iron skillet would go though the perforations in the pan and surround the loaves of bread. The results seemed to indicate it worked just like I hoped. The pan I bought is limited to a max temperature of 450F. I used 445F to stay below that limit. To make up for the drop in temperature I used a convection bake setting on the oven. I hoped the fan would help circulate the steam around the loaves. This first attempt with the pan was an unqualified success.

I am still not sure if I am going to keep this pan or exchange it for a replacement. My concern is the replacement could have missing coating in an area that the bread does touch. I’ve read a lot of reviews for a lot of non-stick baguette pans and a universal complaint of many reviewers are coating issues. Either what I experienced with it missing from new or the coating flaking off during use a sticking to the bread. Oh for the days before non-stick coatings.

Lame

The purpose of slashing dough just before it goes into the oven is to control where the expansion occurs during oven spring and where the crust will crack.

Over the years I have used several sharp implements to slash loaves. One was a lame (pronounced “lahm”) without interchangeable blades, bad idea which I will cover later. Others include filet knives and single edge razor blades. Then I purchased the lame pictured above. It uses interchangeable double edge razor blades and holds them in a curve. Others are available that hold the blade flat. Regardless of how the blade is held, you only use one corner of the blade at a time depending on whether you are right or left handed. For me it is the upper left corner. There is the problem with non removable blades. Even though there are 4 corners only 1 is usable. And I found the cost of a lame with non removable blades to be about 80% of one with removable blades.

There three keys to successfully using a lame. First is to moisten the blade with water just before slashing the loaf. Second is to quickly slash with conviction. A slow slash will drag and wrinkle and pull the dough. Finally is to reposition the blade on the handle as soon as it begins to drag. I find I can only slash 4 or 5 loaves before a corner has lost enough sharpness to start dragging. A package of 5 blades came with my lame. I noticed that the blades had numbers on the corners but it did not dawn on me in the beginning to start out with corner #1 in my slashing position. If I had, I could have worked my way through the 4 corners and known which corners were used. What I do now is work my way thru the 4 corners in order so I know exactly which corners have been used and when it is time to change the blade.

It takes practice to slash a loaf and some loaves are more difficult than others. Loaves with whole grains are more difficult and ruin edges more quickly.

The reason I like the lame shown above is that I feel I have better control of exactly where I am slashing. The handle is large enough to get a good grip without having to apply a lot of pressure. And control is the reason I believe a lame is important for baguettes. When using a baguette pan, the loaves are slashed after being placed in the pan. A baguette is slashed with 5 closely spaced overlapping slashes. They shouldn’t touch or cross. I just can’t imagine trying this with a 6” blade filet knife.

I hope this provides some insight into why I believe the above tools are important to successful baguette making. Could you make do with other items? Of course, it is all about what works for you.

Baguettes au Levain

Baguettes straight from the oven

I have been reluctant to attempt making baguettes. Mainly this is because baguettes need to be eaten within hours of baking or they lose the characteristics that make a baguette special, at least for us Americans. It wasn’t until I discovered I could get French flour that I even considered attempting them. Even then I thought long and hard about whether I even wanted to try. In the end I am so glad I did.

In France, everything to do with baguettes is regulated by the French government. From the ingredients to the fact that a baguette must have five overlapping slashes running the length of the baguette. The only flexibility a baker has is in his process. Most make a straight dough using yeast. Some use a levain like I have chosen to do. Others save some of the dough from the previous day and incorporate it into the current days dough. There are even vending machines that will dispense freshly made baguettes.

My first attempt was not a huge success. They certainly were not worthy of documenting. I discovered French flour behaves differently than domestic flour. I am used routinely to making breads with a hydration level of 75% or more. The base recipe I was following for the baguettes had a hydration level of 62% and the dough was a sticky, gloppy mess that was difficult to handle all the way through the process. To compound things I made them too long and they hung off the parchment and the cookie sheet I use to transfer them to the baking stone. They turned out downright ugly! But oh the flavor. I have never made a bread that tasted so good. The crust wasn’t crispy, the crumb was chewy but did they ever taste good. That made it worth continuing.

Formed baguettes during their final rise in the couche

To solve my main issue I reduced the hydration level to 55%. That’s the lowest hydration level I’ve ever used for a bread dough. In the past I have tried a number of different methods to get steam around the loaf. Most successful for me has always been the dutch oven. Obviously, that wouldn’t work for baguettes. I’ve tried using a cast iron pan underneath the baking stone but never really got a crust I was satisfied with. This was what I did for the first round of baguettes. So I decided to take a chance and bought a perforated baguette pan the would let the steam from the pan below directly surround the loaves by coming up through the perforations in the pan. This was an unqualified success. My second batch of baguettes had a shatteringly crispy thin crust with a soft, tender crumb. The flavor was even better than the first time. If I was only allowed to eat one type of bread for the rest of my life, this would be it. Thankfully, that is not the case and I can continue to experiment with other bread types and document them in this blog.

The flour used was Francine Bio T55 Farine an organic all purpose flour. The salt used in this recipe was Gros Sel de Guerande. Both items were purchased from Yummy Bazaar www.yummybazaar.com.

Some item that I consider necessary to make successful baguettes at home include a linen couche, a baguette flipping board, a lame and a baguette pan. I have shown the ones I use in the photo below. In my next post I will cover why I think they are important.

Flipping board, lame, baguette pan and couche underneath

The Formula

Ingredient AmountBakers %
Levain
Starter17 g14%
Water110 g88%
T55 Flour125 g100%
Dough
Levain242 g81%
Water125 g42%
T55 Flour300 g100%
Sea Salt5 g1.7%
Yeast1 g (1/4 t)0.3%

My Process

  1. Day 1 evening, weigh levain ingredients.
  2. Mix the starter into the water and stir to dissolve.
  3. Add the flour and stir until incorporated.
  4. Cover bowl and let stand on the counter for 12 hours.
  5. Day 2 morning, weigh all dough ingredients.
  6. In a mixing bowl, add the levain to the water and stir to dissolve.
  7. Add the salt and yeast to the flour making sure to keep them separate, stir to incorporate.
  8. Slowly add the flour mixture to the water/levain mixture using a dough whisk. Continue until all the dry flour mixture is incorporated into the dough.
  9. Transfer the dough to a dough rising container and cover. Let rest 10 minutes.
  10. Stretch and fold the dough the dough 4 or 5 times on 10 minute intervals until a smooth dough is achieved, covering in between.
  11. Let the dough rise for an hour to and hour and fifteen minutes (I let it go an hour and a half and it was slightly over proofed).
  12. Punch down the dough, form a rough ball, lightly flour the dough, and divide into 3 equal pieces. Use a scale!
  13. Shape each dough piece into a log.
  14. Cover with damp towel and let rest 15 minutes.
  15. Shape baguettes. I strongly recommend watching the video on Breadtopia http://www.breadtopia.com to learn how to do this. There is a technique to this and I had to watch numerous times to semi-master it. I still need more practice.
  16. Transfer formed dough to a well floured linen couche or linen towel. Let rise 1 hour or until doubled in size.
  17. Preheat oven to 445F convection. Place a cast iron skillet directly beneath where the baguettes will bake. The baguette pan I bought is non-stick and has a maximum temperature of 450F. The recipe for baguettes calls for baking at 475F, too high for the pan. Our oven uses a temperature offset of 25F when set to “auto convection” so I actually set to 470F auto convection to get to the 440F setting.
  18. Use a baguette flipping board to transfer the formed dough to baguette baking pan.
  19. After all 3 loaves are transferred to the pan, slash the loaves. Remember, 5 overlapping slashes.
  20. Place pan in the oven. Add 1/2 cup boiling water to the cast iron pan and quickly close the oven door. Be careful! Steam can cause serious burns.
  21. After 8 minutes remove the cast iron pan from the oven. Total baking time 15 to 17 minutes.
  22. Remove baguettes from the oven to a cooling rack. Let cool 45 minutes before eating.

As soon as these were cool enough we sliced the first one and ate with a cave-ripened Brie from Wegmans. We also ate plain, with butter, and with strawberry jam. All were awesome!

The crumb, sliced plain and with Brie

For dinner, we cut one baguette in half, split it and had with a grilled Gianelli Italian Sausage, peppers and onions. Also delicious. The sandwich was devoured and savored in lieu of taking a picture.

The third baguette was used the next morning for French toast. Again, very, very good. Just shows the versatility of the seemingly simple baguette.

I will continue to work baguettes into my weekly bread making. I also want to try using the French flour in some of the other breads I bake. It has the best flavor and aroma of any flour I have used to date.

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation of any kind with Breadtopia, Yummy Bazaar, Wegmans or Gianelli Sausage.